It all starts with a hole.

Its size depends on the quality of the soil that the tree will find in its first years of growth. 50 x 50 x 70cm depth is enough for mountain or forest soil, already loaded with humus, for fields and pastures rich enough in composts and organic matter.

Dig straight, vertically, in a square, and keep the original soil close to the hole, after removing all stones.

Throw in 2 kilos of natural granular fertilizer at the bottom (easier to control the quantities). In spring: chicken droppings. In late summer or early fall: cow manure and/or horse manure (it will release nutrients more slowly). Also add 200 grams of horn.

Do not leave the granules in a block, but mix them with the soil.
Widen the hole at the bottom, scraping the edges with a hoe, then drop soil in an amount roughly equal to the fertilizer granules.
Stir until smooth.

Then cover with a layer of soil: 5cm to 10cm minimum.
Be careful, the fertilizer must not be in contact with the roots.
Scrape the inside edges of the hole back up, and let this soil settle to the bottom and cover the entire fertilizer mixture.

In the end the hole will have a more or less flared amphora shape.

You can use manure instead of pellets, but it is important that it is well matured (6 to 9 months at least). In this case mix half a wheelbarrow of manure with the soil and line the bottom of the hole with this mixture. Then cover with 10 centimeters of soil before placing the plant.

You can now unpack your tree.

When you take it out and plant it, the soil in the pot should be moist but not too much. If it is waterlogged, wait until the next day for it to evaporate. Once out of the pot, place the tree at the bottom of the hole, well in the middle.

Then check the depth.

On the one hand, once the hole is backfilled, the level of the soil should be a few centimeters lower than the edges, in order to form a shallow cup. On the other hand, the roots must be covered but not the trunk or very little, and especially the suture between the rootstock and the graft must not be buried (this joint is clearly visible on the trunk).

If the hole is too deep, remove the plant and add the necessary thickness using the soil you have set aside. Put the tree back with its root ball at the bottom.

Holding the tree upright, fill the hole with the original soil, evenly and lightly packing it in.

You can plant a stake if the plant is already tall, at 10 or 15cm from the trunk, not closer. The stake will then be useful if you want to protect the plant for its first winters (see Protection). Tie the main branch to the stake at mid-height by forming a figure 8 (cross the wire), with a tie made of natural rope that is not sharp or too thin, such as hemp or jute.

After one year of growth, two at the most, it is better to remove the stake. In case of strong wind it can cause shocks on the branches and injuries to the leaves. Pull it out of the ground straight so as not to break any roots. Then fill in the hole left by the stake with soil without packing.

The plant is ready for a first watering. 10L in summer or if the soil is dry. 5L in spring or if the soil is already wet. If the surrounding ground is soaked, water anyway, but just a quart or two.

Here is your tree finally planted.
If you have more than one, it is recommended to prepare the holes in advance!

For clay-limestone soils, the process is the same, with some drawbacks and complications.

First, the size of the hole: at least 80 x 80, and 90cm or more deep.

Keep only half of the soil removed, cleaned of stones and pebbles,

Fill the bottom with 4 kilos of granulated fertilizer (or a wheelbarrow of manure) and 400 grams of horn shavings. Mix and stir with the soil from the inner walls (remove any pebbles that fall out).

Before placing the tree in the hole, the soil must first be prepared to fill it in to improve the original soil.

For this purpose, you need an external contribution of vegetable garden soil, fat, decompacted and not sandy. Avoid bagged potting soil or peat moss.

You will need two wheelbarrows of good soil, to be mixed with a shovel, half and half with the less good soil, removed at the beginning.

If the soil is very clayey, it is also advisable, before applying the bottom fertilizer, to lay a layer of large pebbles and gravel to ensure some drainage. So the hole will have to be even deeper.

Difficult soils require a lot of extra effort, but this will allow the tree to become accustomed to the terrain and develop its horizontal root system without difficulty.

Note also that in this kind of soil, it is essential to check beforehand that the rootstock is adapted to limestone (see Rootstocks).

Finally, consider that if the soil is poor in nutrients, very sandy or degraded, more frequent applications of natural fertilizer will be necessary to ensure its development (see Fertilization).