Pruning orange trees | Alpagrumi

Pruning orange trees

As winter draws to a close, it’s time to prune your citrus trees.

In the first few years after planting, some varieties, such as mandarins in particular, are pruned very little.
Generally, we simply shorten the longest branches to encourage branching.
Training pruning proper is only carried out in the 3rd or 4th year.
For other varieties, such as yuzu and some orange trees, especially on Citrumelo rootstock (very vigorous), the first serious pruning should often be brought forward to the second year.

Let’s take a look at the pruning steps for a young Navelina orange tree.

This Navelina orange tree was planted in spring two years ago. So two whole seasons of growth without intervention. Except for last November’s snow, which broke a branch just in front.

You can see that one of the main branches broken off by the snow has already been pruned.

Here’s the base of the same broken branch, the biggest one in the middle, quite green. In fact, it was more of a nuisance, blocking light from entering the heart of the tree. The remaining part is also a nuisance, too vertical and too close to the main trunk. If we leave it, the center of the tree will remain closed, in the shade, ideal for the cochineal.

The tools are disinfected before each use. And every time before moving on to another tree.

We’ll saw off the branch at the base to open it up to the light, taking care not to damage the nearby trunk.

Viewed from above, we see the four main branches remaining and growing in diverging directions. The less dense, more open part faces the sun.
Anything growing towards the center of these four main trunks should be removed.

Secondary branches that cross or overlap should also be removed.

Now we move to the top of the branches. On the orange tree, there are always multiple shoots, more or less vigorous, sometimes very close together and almost parallel, and some pointing inwards.

We remove all excess branches, leaving 3 or 4 that are vigorous, as wide apart as possible and pointing outwards. We then shorten the remaining branches to 50/60 cm.

Here we have 3 vigorous branches that have grown tightly and a 4th that is thinner in the shade. Next season, all these branches will legnify, turn brown and thicken. There’s not enough room for them all to grow.

We’ll give them room to grow, by cutting off the central branch and also the less vigorous one at the back.

Here’s the central branch just cut off at the base. It’s over a metre long. You shouldn’t be afraid of pruning long branches. The Navelina variety grafted on Citrumelo can generate several gourmands like this every year, often in the heart of the tree.

The top of another main branch, a little too bushy.

We start by removing the secondary branches that point inwards, and the branch structure is revealed.

There are far too many shoots in every direction, the branches are too dense and the compact clusters of leaves provide shelter for pests.

We’re going to simplify the structure and leave three diverging branches that can grow without getting in the way. We shorten them to 50/60cm.

The last main branch before pruning.

And after pruning

The pruning of this Navelina orange tree is now complete, with the structure in four main trunks clearly visible.

Navelina before the waist

Navelina after pruning

With such a vigorous variety, you need to select the main branches early enough to create a cupped structure. Above all, don’t hesitate to remove excess branches and clear out the interior to aerate and lighten.
After pruning, there is as much green on the ground as on the tree.

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