Citrus trees in a favorable season will grow in successive pushes, in spring, early summer and often again in early fall.

Pruning is done at the end of winter, before the first growth spurt in spring.

At other times, pruning is only used in case of an incident, broken or damaged branch.

However, a branch that hinders the passage or the harvest can be cut off in any season without the tree suffering.

During the first three years after planting, the young tree needs to expand its leaf area for rapid growth. For this reason it is not yet necessary to remove the low and bushy branches at the base of the tree. Of course it is necessary to remove, as soon as they appear, all the shoots below the grafting point.

The tree must also branch and expand. To do this, only the longest branches of the crown, the top of the tree, will be shortened by about a third, by half if they are very long.

During these three years we don't remove complete branches yet and we let the tree grow a little wild and gain volume and amplitude freely.

By the 4th year, a well-fed and irrigated tree will be established, with a complete root system and a full canopy. Depending on the variety, it will sometimes be bushy, a little wild, but it is now strong enough to withstand shape pruning.

We will first clean the trunk of the low branches (above the grafting point) on a height of 60/80 cm for the low trees (for example mandarin trees), or 1 meter to 1,20 meter for the bigger trees (pomelo, yuzu). Sometimes two main trunks can be left when they diverge sufficiently, or exceptionally three. But if the tree is planted near a wall or shelter, do not allow a trunk to grow in that direction.

Cut the branches flush with the trunk, with clean pruning shears and for larger branches with a sharp saw. To avoid tearing the bark when a large branch comes off, first saw it off 30 centimeters from the trunk. Then saw off the remaining section flush with the trunk.

The branches in the center of the tree must now be completely removed. Ideally, it should have an open shape to let light into the heart of the wreath, with the main branches widening outward and a clear center. Do not hesitate to cut branches that grow straight up the middle and rise vertically, they can mobilize all the energy of the tree and prevent light from penetrating the canopy. From the trunk only three to five main branches will be left, in diverging directions.

Remove secondary branches that cross each other. As the tree grows, they will inevitably be damaged by friction.
Also remove any branches that point directly to the center of the tree.

The remaining branches, main or secondary, must not be shortened

It may not be necessary to prune a young citrus tree every year, as long as it maintains a fairly balanced shape. If necessary, remove the young vigorous branches shooting up (stragglers), if they start to occupy the center of the crown. Also clean the trunk of regrowth and remove or shorten crossing branches to avoid damage.

It is necessary to eliminate especially and always the shoots of the rootstock (below the point of graft) as soon as they appear, thus in all seasons. These branches to be eliminated can be recognized by their different foliage.

It is difficult to maintain an open cup shape for a citrus tree for long. Unless it is a commercial planting, with the obligation to facilitate a quick harvest, the effort required is not justified. For citrus trees planted in the ground in a private garden, pruning interventions become exceptional when they have reached full maturity.

Low stature trees, such as mandarin trees, will quickly form a round canopy, the center filled by the branches of the outer main branches. It is their natural form, adapted to a good production of fruits. As indicated, only vertical central suckers and rootstock regrowth need to be removed.

Larger trees such as yuzus or pomelos will grow taller and wider, with a umbrella-like crown. It will just be necessary to eliminate possible suckers at the base and on the trunk.

For mature citrus trees, pruning consists only of intervening in case of incident, such as shortening a broken branch before it damages the bark.
In case of frost damage on young plants and auxiliary branches, all damaged and blackened parts should be removed at the end of winter.